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Vintage Craftsman 1. Drill Press - Restore/refurb. Motor testing: Because the notice on the DP said the motor did not work, checking it out was one of my higher priority items. As bought, the power cable and on/off switch cables on the DP had been snipped off.

You can see some of that in the photos attached to my first post. Once I had the motor disassembled, I started checking each of the elements. First off was the centrifugal switch. The mechanism looked OK.

Couldn't spin up the rotor, but the springs and weights looked OK, and their motions were unimpeded. The switch itself had good continuity when closed, and infinite resistance when open. Just for fun I gave the contacts a good cleaning with some 6. Second was the motor windings. Hmmm - the stator has 5 leads. I assumed that meant split run windings, plus a start winding (because it connected to the centrifugal switch and capacitor).

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The meters I had - an HF freebie with at least 1. It did appear that two of them were shorted together, but I couldn't be sure. So I cobbled together a 1. AC test rig - basically, a pair of alligators in series with a 1. When connected across a good motor winding and you touch a screwdriver lightly to the motor poles, you can feel a slight buzz from the AC magnetic field. If the two leads are shorted, there will be no buzz. PS - If you want to build such a rig yourself, be sure to use an incandescent bulb (remember those?) of at least 1.

Energy efficient bulbs just won't do it! Two of the leads were definitely shorted together. But it looked like they both went to the same place. Assuming I had nothing to lose, I carefully cut away some of the ancient, crusted tape over what looked like the right joint and discovered that both leads were soldered to the same motor wire.

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• · About a week ago I bought myself a new project. It's an old Craftsman 150 drill press I saw at a Habitat for Humanity thrift store. Sold "as is," with a.

I guess it was done to make the many connections easier(?) Anyway, I re- insulated the joint with "liquid electrical tape" and declared the windings OK. I did add heat shrink tubing to all the motor leads, both to identify them and as insurance - the wires are rubber insulated and cloth covered. Though the original insulation seemed OK, such ancient rubber is not too flexible any more, so it's very easy to crack. Next was the capacitor. The form factor and construction of the original capacitor is fascinating - a solder sealed rectangular metal box, about 3/4" x 3 1/4" x 5", slipped inside a cardboard sleeve. This shape allows the capacitor to nestle inside the motor base.

No bulky cylindrical "warts" on the outside of the motor case for Craftsman! So I sincerely hoped that it would be good. A replacement of the same size and shape would probably be impossible to find nowadays! An initial test with an analog ohm meter indicated that it was indeed acting like a capacitor. For those interested, make sure the capacitor is discharged by shorting the leads together.

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Connect across an analog ohm meter. The needle should immediately swing to somewhere in mid scale, then decay to infinite ohms as the capacitor charges. Wait a second or two and reverse the test leads.

The needle should immediately peg at zero ohms, then decay back to infinite. Watch The Man Who Lives With Bears Tube Free there. If the needle does not go to infinite ohms on either test, or the second test does not peg the meter, there is probably a high resistance short in the cap.

If the needle goes to low ohms and stays there, there's a low resistance short. If the needle doesn't move at all, there's an open.]The question was, what value was the capacitance? I'd read that old capacitors slowly lose it, so I was concerned. Went to Radio Shack and found a very nice meter (SKU #2. It not only has capacitance, but also several other useful scales not normally found on meters. Plus the range of the capacitance scale (9.

F) was wider than that of a $7. The nominal value of my capacitor would have been out of range on the other one. Tested the capacitor when I got home. It read 1. 90. 6 u. F - smack dab in the middle of the value range (1. MFD) printed on the case.

Golden! Bottom line - I have every reason to believe that the original motor will run just fine, once I get the new bearings and reassemble it. Not having to replce the motor or add a clunky new capacitor will definitely help preserve the "vintage" look of this old veteran! I don't know why the DP was originally marked as having a non- working motor. PS - Use caution when ordering bearings (especially Chinese) from e. Bay!!! I'd originally ordered the same bearing number as that originally on the motor (with a different suffix for shielded).

The bearings I got did not fit (though they were somewhat close)! I went back to the motor and measured the shaft diameter and housing bore. They were different (metric) from the nominal sizes (inch) of the description on e. Bay, even though the numbers were the same. Did a new search, just for the metric ID, OD, etc.

Found some matches and ordered a pair of these. Then, just for fun, I did another e. Bay search, based on the bearing number listed for one of the correct ones. Watch Justin Bieber`S Believe Hindi Full Movie. Bleah! The hits I got for that number were for a different ID!!!